Thursday, February 9, 2017
Book Review - Demystifying Bra Fitting & Construction
This is a book by Norma Loehr of Orange Lingerie. I read it originally close to two years ago when I initially purchased a copy but when I decided to finally use her Marlborough bra pattern I decided a reread would be good. The layout is simple and concise and works well for reference. Norma covers various fitting issues and her suggestions of alterations to a full frame bra pattern are presented well. She covers simple tricks for sewing with bra fabrics and how to fit an underwire correctly. The fact that she stresses well fitting underwire is essential is something I strongly agree with. Just switching out underwire in a ready to wear bra can create a drastic difference in its fit. This is something I have done for clients so they can actually get some wear out of bras that otherwise would just remain in their lingerie drawer.
A chapter which I think anyone making bras can benefit from is The Bridge Test. Norma does a great job of explaining in great detail how to do this while stressing that the space between an individuals breasts can vary greatly from person to person. The ideal fit for a bra is for the bridge to rest flat against your body. Now this is a bit difficult to do yourself so this is where a bra fitting buddy can be beneficial. Anyone who has tried to take accurate measurements themselves can attest to the fact it is better if you a have a measuring buddy when sizing a pattern.
A good friend and I had an amusing time following Norma's instructions to the tee. We actually followed her fitting techniques from start to finish. It was the perfect way to truly test the book. It helped my friend understand how a bra should correctly fit and I got to prove some points by attempting to fit what I knew to be totally wrong. She came away with a lot more knowledge on why she had a hard time finding bras that fit correctly and I got to practice how to best phrase certain questions when dealing with a client. Many people are not comfortable discussing measurements let alone ones for their intimate wear. Fitting ready to wear bras can be a challenge due to the intimacy involved but custom bra fitting can be even more intimate.
I would recommend this book it actually does Demystify various aspects of bras. The layout also makes it easy to reference when wanting to double check something be it for your own creations or to help explain the procedure of bra fitting to a client.