Book Review - Demystifying Bra Fitting & Construction

This is a book by Norma Loehr of Orange Lingerie. I read it originally close to two years ago when I initially purchased a copy but when I decided to finally use her Marlborough bra pattern I decided a reread would be good. The layout is simple and concise and works well for reference. Norma covers various fitting issues and her suggestions of alterations to a full frame bra pattern are presented well. She covers simple tricks for sewing with bra fabrics and how to fit an underwire correctly. The fact that she stresses well fitting underwire is essential is something I strongly agree with. Just switching out underwire in a ready to wear bra can create a drastic difference in its fit. This is something I have done for clients so they can actually get some wear out of bras that otherwise would just remain in their lingerie drawer.

A chapter which I think anyone making bras can benefit from is The Bridge Test. Norma does a great job of explaining in great detail how to do this while stressing that the space between an individuals breasts can vary greatly from person to person. The ideal fit for a bra is for the bridge to rest flat against your body. Now this is a bit difficult to do yourself so this is where a bra fitting buddy can be beneficial. Anyone who has tried to take accurate measurements themselves can attest to the fact it is better if you a have a measuring buddy when sizing a pattern.

A good friend and I had an amusing time following Norma's instructions to the tee. We actually followed her fitting techniques from start to finish. It was the perfect way to truly test the book. It helped my friend understand how a bra should correctly fit and I got to prove some points by attempting to fit what I knew to be totally wrong. She came away with a lot more knowledge on why she had a hard time finding bras that fit correctly and I got to practice how to best phrase certain questions when dealing with a client. Many people are not comfortable discussing measurements let alone ones for their intimate wear. Fitting ready to wear bras can be a challenge due to the intimacy involved but custom bra fitting can be even more intimate.

I would recommend this book it actually does Demystify various aspects of bras. The layout also makes it easy to reference when wanting to double check something be it for your own creations or to help explain the procedure of bra fitting to a client.

Pattern Review - Marlborough Bra

The Marlborough Bra by Orange Lingerie. This is a pattern I actually got a while ago but for some reason didn't get around to trying out. It is a nice pattern though the fit is a bit off for me. I changed up the pattern some by doing two straps. As I have mentioned I often have an issue with my straps sliding. So I revamped the pattern a bit and did two straps with them attached separately on the back band.

One of the other alterations I did to the pattern is using the bra frame for a 38", this provides a better fit for me. It seems in general that the 38" underwires sit better on my body, that is after I shorten them ;) so I thought lets just start with that size in the frame also and see how that fares. In general I have a tendency to like experimenting and testing theories of my own. So my experiment worked with this pattern on the band fit. I also went with the 38 cup size but I should of remembered to take a bit out of the arc of the cup as there is a smidge too much room there aka I don't quite fill them. The top of the cup fits smoothly and I like how they sit otherwise so next time I will reduce the arc slightly.    

To go with the bra I also made a basic pair of panties with a plain blue mesh back. The Marlborough pattern is good for someone who has some previous experience sewing bras, I wouldn't recommend it for a novice. Something that I like about it is that you can end up with very different looks without changing the pattern much.

Something to remember with bras is that no two women have the exact same proportions. I personally prefer a band size that is technically at least two sizes too big. I can get away with this partially due to the fact that I do not need much support compared to many women. As I have been experimenting with a variety of patterns I find what fits me best (most comfortably and still provides support) is not the recommended size by the designer. This is an issue I have with clothing in general, I have never been able to find something just off the rack that fits correctly without alterations. So my tendency is to buy too large and then alter as needed. 

Sourcing Supplies - Our Fabric Stash

Since moving to Seattle I have been constantly looking for new places to buy my supplies. I admit I had been a bit spoiled before as I had a wholesale account with H.A. Kidd who I got my thread from along with the majority of my basic elastics. Something I still have not discovered here in the US. It is very strange but no one in Seattle seems to carry Gutterman thread which has been my favourite thread for years. Thankfully I had done an order just before moving but certain colours have come to an end or are nearing that state. Coats seems to be the standard carried by the shops here, I have given in and bought a few. They are better then I remember but the spools don't work as well on my machines.Well enough lamenting my thread habit, I know the average person would think I had enough to last years if not decades. 

This is where I store my many colours of thread, approx 75% of the drawers contain them. The other 25% is made up of lingerie elastic, underwires, bra sliders/rings and underwire chaneling. I am so happy with these drawers(IKEA) as they keep many essentials conveniently by my sewing machines.

During my search for supplies I came across a treasure of a store. Our Fabric Stash which has a location lower level 3 in Seattle's Pike Place Market  http://www.ourfabricstash.com/
If you happen to be in downtown Seattle and are a lover of fabric make sure you drop by. It is always a mystery of what they may have and give yourself minimum 1/2 hour to just dig amongst the textiles. I have been quite lucky at times, one time I found some offcuts of cotton t-shirts which I then used to try a variety of underwear designs. Here is a sampling.

It was a wonderful way to have an assortment of colour options and it was also keeping fabric out of landfill where offcuts often end up.




I have also found a variety of vintage fabrics at Our Fabric Stash. It is so exciting when one of her vendors have decided to part with some of their stash. I love vintage fabrics. I must admit I have a few totes of them in my basement but that doesn't mean I can't get more. Often they are small pieces but they have been inspiration at times for me to create.

 

This Marlborough Bra was created using a late 60's perhaps early 70's printed floral that I discovered at Our Fabric Stash. It sat for a while in my studio until I discovered some vintage lace I had overdyed when tidying. I am quite happy with the combination the only issue is that it is a small fit partially due to the fabric ;). The next thing on my worktable is the colourway of the recommended fabrics to try a true test of the pattern. One of my best and worst characteristics is that I am not a strict follower of recommendations. Having this trait means I need to get better about doing an accurate stretch test of my fabric when experimenting. Not just a quick one but actually measure stretch and then compare with standard fabric I use. It would have been a tragedy if this was meant for a client and it hadn't fit. Though the positive side is I have enough fabric left to do at least one more bra and it has reminded me to be more stringent with doing fabric stretch tests.

Florence from Seamwork - Pattern Review

Florence a lounge bra available from the online magazine Seamwork. It is promoted as a simple and comfortable soft bra, it is definitely both of these things. Basic sewing skills are needed and of course some nice stretch lace. 

I had some very soft comfy black stretch lace that I bought from Sew Sassy Fabrics and some scraps of duoplex from a previous project. 

Front view

Side view

Back view

The pattern consists of three pieces which creates ease of construction. The band is nice and wide in the back with only a centre seam. I did one of my standard revamps and extended the straps down into the band, this time by at about 2 1/2 inches. Still liking the added stability this creates and my straps slip less on my shoulders. The cup is two pieces with a vertical seam which is then sewn into the band. For a little added structure elastic is sewn along the top of the outer cup pieces, the inner cup uses the scalloped edge of the lace for the top. This bra is not going to provide much support to the well endowed but then that is why it is labeled as a lounge bra. For us ladies who are in the A to C range of cup size it is perfect for those days you want a bra but not the structure.

I would recommend this pattern for anyone who wants to dip their toes into the art of making lingerie. It has the basic structural details of a bra frame/band, cups and straps. The Florence is one of those nice introductory projects which won't scare off a novice. But it is also one of those projects perfect for a more experienced sewer who just wants to whip something up. I am also thinking it may make a nice starter bra for someone new to the concept of wearing them. 

Simplicity Pattern Review - 8229 & 8228 by Madalynne

Simplicity and Madalynne have paired up to release a couple of patterns. One of the last times I was at Pacific Fabrics here in Seattle I decided to pick them both up. It is wonderful that the big companies are starting to notice the comeback of sewers creating lingerie again. There are many independent designers who have released wonderful lingerie patterns but we all have to admit not everyone seems to be aware of this fact. These patterns I am sure will help increase the awareness that patterns are available and hopefully people will explore their options.  

The colours for this one were partially picked due to the Halloween season and the fact that I had unearthed a package of dyed lingerie fabric I had bought from Bravo Bella. The orange stretch lace is from Sew Sassy. After making a couple of bras from 8229 I am happy with the fit of bras. This bra has a wide bridge between the cups compared to many patterns so something to be very cautious of when creating this bra. It is perfect for me but know it would be too wide for many women. I made a 36B, sometimes I make a 34C but I know Madalynne patterns from previous experience fit a bit on the smaller side so went with the 36B. The 34 would of been more confining then I like but I also don't wear my bras as tight as often recommended.

Another modification I normally do is to sew the strap like the above picture. For some reason it seems to help make my straps stay in the appropriate place on my shoulders. When I don't sew them this way the straps slide off my shoulders continuously.

 Above is a picture of the bra I did in a neutral beige- stretch lace from Sew Sassy and Beige powernet, and sheer organza(lining) from Nancy's Sewing Basket. 

This is the bra from 8228 and panties from 8229. For some reason the panties aren't comfy at all though they fit in general. I know one issue is the cut of the leg, I would need to raise or lower the front. Everything else is just off a bit also, the crotch is a smidge wider then I find comfortable and the waist hits somewhere between my high and low waist and not in a flattering spot. I assume on most people they would sit on their high waist. Thus far I have never come across a pantie pattern that fits me just right, the only ones that fit and are comfy are patterns that I have created from my measurements.This is probably due to my stride and my unique proportions.

I decided to try the halter bra from the 8228. Here my main issue is that it is to short as you can see on the mannequin(picture below). The cups rise up and it creates way to much strain on my neck. This is a simple thing to remedy though by just adding some length to the neck strap. I need at least 2 1/2" for it to sit comfortably. I am sure once I do this it will fit quite well. It gives nice coverage in the cups and seems comfy otherwise. Eventually I am sure I will try the second bra on each pattern. I am going to compare the cut of the panties and see if there is any variance before trying the second pair of those..

Perfection of Style - Yves Saint Laurent

I have been to see The Perfection of Style - Yves Saint Laurent twice now since its opening at the Seattle Art Museum. Once just to check it out and see how it had been curated. I always find it very interesting to see how individual curators decide to display fashion exhibits. This exhibit is done exceptionally well it is a wonderful combination of decades through clothing, collection boards, fabrics, costume jewellery etc. The second was to attend a workshop on Fashion & Identity with the YSL exhibit being part of the discussions. Pictures following are some of the outfits that caught my eye often because of the structure, detailing and draping.

Detail of ivory evening dress which could easily double as a wedding dress 1971

More complete view of ivory evening dress

One of his simple but striking ensembles
rive gauche collection 1977

                

One of my favourite dresses due to it's simplicity
1965

Side view of black silk crepe dress

One Sample of many collection boards on display

rive gauche collection 1991

Wedding gown 1970
Personally I think it would be an amazing jacket

My favourite decades from Yves Saint Laurent are the late 60's and the 70's. He did an amazing job of including many aspects of pop culture into his designs throughout his life but I feel he did it the best during these times in his collections. 

All About the Fabric

It is all about the fabric sometimes. I had a small piece of this fabric that kept making it back to the top of a pile. So I decided obviously it wanted to be made into something. But then it was so hard to decide which side I preferred. So thus I had to play with things a bit to make the top reversible. Not the easiest thing to do with a bra. But I managed tho the hooks and eyes are a little difficult to do up when the cups are gold.

 This is not normally a fabric I would own. But sometimes one doesn't know how something ends up in their fabric stash. It was just enough to make a Watson bra with matching panties.

Had to use black for the elastics etc but it gives a nice finish to the set. There is a good chance that I will never wear the set but I am quite happy with the finished project aesthetic wise.