It Started With Some Fabric From Spoonflower

Tiny Steampunk Octopuses 6 by Jade Gordon which I purchased from Spoonflower Fabrics. At first I wasn't sure what colours to pick up and then I decided to just go for it. So the results was a very punchy bright bra and pantie set. The panties have a bright orange back.

I am quite happy with the bra and it fits well. Used the Simplicity 8229 by Madalynne as my starting point for the bra. Changed the strap by making them from the same fabric as frame. Also decided to use some colourful elastics I had and treat it like FOE(fold over elastic). Otherwise used the pattern with a few fitting tweaks that I have documented and included in the pattern sleeve for future reference. It has been a challenge for me but I have been doing a better job of keeping my notes for each pattern organized and all together. When I get working I have a tendency to create piles that then get set aside and sometimes piled with another pile. Have finally realized digging through piles and searching for loose notes is not the best use of my time and guess what sometimes it is really frustrating ;).

Now the panties were not such a success. I manged to pin them on the mannequin so they fit more like what I was going for but they need some alterations. The main problem was the heavy elastic I used on the waist and legs. Basically it makes both too loose aka too large. The leg in the back actually sits away from my bum, I really hate pantie lines, but this is definitely not a solution. Perhaps if I cut them apart at the side seam and change the angle of the seam and remove some excess fabric I can make them wearable. Already determined it was way too much work to rip off the elastic and start anew but I refuse to just toss them. The elastic may of been fine if I had used different fabric for the back but I went for a stretch mesh - Note to self Stretch mesh and heavy elastic don't play well together.

Stretch mesh has been my go to fabric lately for panties especially when I am trying to match another fabric. I bought a nice variety of colours at Pacific Fabric and it is something they consistently have. But stretch mesh doesn't work with everything no matter how hard I try to make it. The issue with making panties is that I don't really like tricot that much for them. Other options are stretch laces but sometimes that is more textured then I want. As for a nice light cotton spandex mix I haven't been having much luck finding that. To create a nice basic pair of panties sometimes seems quite elusive. Something with no prints, no texture and breathable fabric.

Simplicity Pattern Review - 8229 & 8228 by Madalynne

Simplicity and Madalynne have paired up to release a couple of patterns. One of the last times I was at Pacific Fabrics here in Seattle I decided to pick them both up. It is wonderful that the big companies are starting to notice the comeback of sewers creating lingerie again. There are many independent designers who have released wonderful lingerie patterns but we all have to admit not everyone seems to be aware of this fact. These patterns I am sure will help increase the awareness that patterns are available and hopefully people will explore their options.  

The colours for this one were partially picked due to the Halloween season and the fact that I had unearthed a package of dyed lingerie fabric I had bought from Bravo Bella. The orange stretch lace is from Sew Sassy. After making a couple of bras from 8229 I am happy with the fit of bras. This bra has a wide bridge between the cups compared to many patterns so something to be very cautious of when creating this bra. It is perfect for me but know it would be too wide for many women. I made a 36B, sometimes I make a 34C but I know Madalynne patterns from previous experience fit a bit on the smaller side so went with the 36B. The 34 would of been more confining then I like but I also don't wear my bras as tight as often recommended.

Another modification I normally do is to sew the strap like the above picture. For some reason it seems to help make my straps stay in the appropriate place on my shoulders. When I don't sew them this way the straps slide off my shoulders continuously.

 Above is a picture of the bra I did in a neutral beige- stretch lace from Sew Sassy and Beige powernet, and sheer organza(lining) from Nancy's Sewing Basket. 

This is the bra from 8228 and panties from 8229. For some reason the panties aren't comfy at all though they fit in general. I know one issue is the cut of the leg, I would need to raise or lower the front. Everything else is just off a bit also, the crotch is a smidge wider then I find comfortable and the waist hits somewhere between my high and low waist and not in a flattering spot. I assume on most people they would sit on their high waist. Thus far I have never come across a pantie pattern that fits me just right, the only ones that fit and are comfy are patterns that I have created from my measurements.This is probably due to my stride and my unique proportions.

I decided to try the halter bra from the 8228. Here my main issue is that it is to short as you can see on the mannequin(picture below). The cups rise up and it creates way to much strain on my neck. This is a simple thing to remedy though by just adding some length to the neck strap. I need at least 2 1/2" for it to sit comfortably. I am sure once I do this it will fit quite well. It gives nice coverage in the cups and seems comfy otherwise. Eventually I am sure I will try the second bra on each pattern. I am going to compare the cut of the panties and see if there is any variance before trying the second pair of those..

All About the Fabric

It is all about the fabric sometimes. I had a small piece of this fabric that kept making it back to the top of a pile. So I decided obviously it wanted to be made into something. But then it was so hard to decide which side I preferred. So thus I had to play with things a bit to make the top reversible. Not the easiest thing to do with a bra. But I managed tho the hooks and eyes are a little difficult to do up when the cups are gold.

 This is not normally a fabric I would own. But sometimes one doesn't know how something ends up in their fabric stash. It was just enough to make a Watson bra with matching panties.

Had to use black for the elastics etc but it gives a nice finish to the set. There is a good chance that I will never wear the set but I am quite happy with the finished project aesthetic wise. 

Spoonflower and Sarah Longline

 Finally seem to of found a pantie pattern that fits well. It doesn't even make much difference which fabric I use. Yeah!!! It is actually the pantie pattern that comes with the Watson Bra from Cloth Habit. The rise on them is actually the perfect dimensions aka they sit in the right places.

This is once again the Sarah Longline which is one of my standby for a comfy bra with a bit of style. It's perfect for playing with different fabrics, be it prints, textures or types. This one along with the panties is made from another Spoonflower Fabric I ordered. It is a modern jersey called 'Dancing in the Smokey Moonlight' by stichyritchie.

Have really been enjoying the fabrics I got from Spoonflower. I would recommend the modern jersey and the skies the limit when it comes to fabric designs. The black stretch lace I used is from a piece I picked up at the fabric consignment store in Pike Market called Our Fabric Stash. It is always an adventure when stepping foot through their door as who knows what treasures you may find. My daughter loves to dig through the baskets of decorating fabric swatches.
The light grey edging is fold over elastic from Sew Sassy Fabrics, the ruffle elastic on the panties is from Fabricland. The bra strapping is from BraMaker's Supply in Hamilton.

Spoonflower Fabric Watson Bra and Panties

Have been using some of the fabrics I got from Spoonflower. This is the Short Circuits in modern jersey designed by Robyriker. So far I have been very happy with the quality of fabrics from Spponflower. They are washing well and seem to keep their spring back quality.

The Watson Bra sewed up nicely and seems like a nice fit. The black fabric is powernet I picked up from Bra Makers Supply when I went to Boob Camp a while ago. The bra strapping is also from there as I bought some of their clearance spools recently - one in black and one in beige. It is a nice size and the price was definitely right. The picot elastic is from Sew Sassy Fabrics

The panties are a nice basic style, will have to see how they fit after they have been washed a couple of times. I haven't been having much luck in the sizing of panties recently, it varies greatly between every type of fabric. So unless I make every pair from the exact same fabric, which I must say would be a bit boring, I may be out of luck. It has been getting a bit discouraging. 

More OhhhLuLu

Made another pattern from OhhhLuLu which is her longline bralette. Thus far I have been quite happy with the fit of these patterns as I need to do only little tweaks. It is usually in the band that I need to do slight modifications(normally end up taking out a couple of inches in the back). I am quite long through the torso which is why I really like the look and feel of the longline. I did notice in her notes that she says it fits up to a C cup but I feel it is catered more to B cups like the other bralettes I have made from OhhhLuLu. The modifications to fit a smaller or slightly larger cup would not be overly difficult to do. At some point I may have to try making an extra small to see if the band fits without any modifications. 

 The matching panties are the Grace pattern again but this time they fit better. It seems I am between the medium and large for her panty sizing. So it will always depend upon the fabric I am using and how generous of seam allowances I use.

I have been very happy with any of the patterns I have purchased from OhhhLuLu. They print out quite accurately with very little issue, unlike many other PDF patterns I have used. Her instructions seem precise though I am not the best to ask about this at times as I only use written instructions as rough guidelines. One of my many some may consider bad habits. Another feature many OhhhLuLu patterns have is that they can be used with either wovens, knits or a combination of both, which is a definite benefit in my books.

Wrap-Around Bralette and Panties

I had bought a variety of stretch laces from Sew Sassy, which by the way I am loving. So after the paprika panties I decided to make another pair, but with the wider lace and slightly longer crotch piece. Which I much prefer the fit of. Though the other pair is still better then most RTW pairs I have boughten. Have always found it hard to find panties I like the look of, plus fit and stay where they are supposed to. But then again I usually need to alter most RTW clothing of any sort to have it fit correctly.

The wrap-around bralette was supposed to be Sierra by Madalynn but I had to do a few adjustments aka hacks to the pattern. The main reason that I had used some of the yardage for my panties so I was short about a yard to make her pattern. So mine ended up with double neck straps, one from the fold over elastic I used  to edge bralette and other strap is same as stretch elastic I used for part of the back. 

Not sure whether I am going to like wearing this bralette, will have to give it the day long test. Definitely would not want to be any bigger in cup size. Not for anyone who is a large B cup or bigger. It is always surprising how the bra fit and style can effect how chesty someone can look or feel. 

Paprika Lace Panties

To create matching panties to go with my brown and paprika bralette I decided to make very basic stretch lace panties. This method is quite simple for anyone who has some sewing experience and there are many YouTube tutorials if you care to do a quick google search. For these panties I used a 6 1/4" wide stretch lace.

Here is the basics 1) Take your hip measurement subtract 4

 2) Cut your lace to this length and then cut in half
 3) Fold each of the two pieces in half

 4) Measure in 1.5" and 1.5' up from bottom. Cut out a piece as above on each folded piece on unfolded edge. Remember not to do it on the folded edge.

  5) You should now have two pieces that look like this which you sew together

  6) Turn out to right side and you have panties. Well just about. Now you need to add a crotch piece.

  7) Cut a piece of lace and stretch cotton to sew right sides together. I did mine 3" for this pair. Next time I would make the crotch piece at least 4" long.

  8) Turn right sides out and do a quick pressing.

  9) Sew crotch piece to main body of panties, right side lace together. Each side of main body, make sure you don't get the panties twisted while doing this.

  10) Should look like this

 11) Turn right side out and you have a pair of lace panties.

 12) Next time I will use slightly wider elastic probably at least 7" but that is my personal preference. These are still quite comfy to wear but they sit a little lower then I would like. A combination of the crotch piece being a little short for me and I actually have a butt unlike my lovely model in the pics. Oh to look like this again but alas I am not 20 anymore.

A picture of the finished set.

Packages on my Doorstep

The stretch laces I just received from Sew Sassy Fabrics just seem to suit this Kwik Sew pattern. I see a new bralette and I think two pairs of panties in my near future.

This morning I found a package from the US Post on my doorstep. The mailman leaves packages on the porch and we get delivery every day of the week, sometimes twice, one of the great things about being in Seattle. So the package was a bubble wrap envelope from Sew Sassy Fabrics with the beautiful stretch laces I decided to try from them. Still trying to find a good fabric store here for laces and bra making supplies. But ecommerce is my friend in this situation. 

So the plan for part of this afternoon is to cut up some lace and perhaps even sew up a bralette.